I have eaten in many fish tavernas in Pireaus. Nearly all of them had beautiful sea views. Some of them had very good food. Most of them were ridiculously expensive.
The only thing ridiculous about Kapetanios, 4 Tenedou Street, Pireaus, is just how good the food is. Fresh fish and seafood cooked simply but beautifully. It is, without doubt, my favourite restaurant in Athens.
You would never ever find it by accident. It’s not by the sea front, but on a side street off a busy main road in the old industrial quarter of Pireaus. But it is extremely popular with locals in the know and famous for its fish soup, which many of the local elderly swear by for longevity.
I would never ever have found it if it hadn’t been for a friend who lives across the road taking me there. Thank goodness she did. I always have some gavros marinatos for a starter. These are little sprats marinated in vinegar and garlic. Very delicious and really whet an appetite. We always have the karavides (see picture) when available and a whole fish done on a charcoal grill. They do great salads, good proper thick chips and lovely dips like tzatziki and tyrokafteri (spicy cheese dip). All the seafood is simply cooked over a charcoal grill or fried and served with the simplest of oil and lemon dressing (ladolemono). But it’s so fresh and beautifully cooked that I wouldn’t have it any other way. You can keep your fancy recipes. This is the best there is.
Now, it’s not cheap by Greek standards, but neither is it, by any stretch, exorbitant, especially given the quality. By British standards, it’s very very reasonable indeed. So, if you happen to be in Athens, I highly recommend Kapetanios. It’s open for Lunch only on Sundays. Service starts at 7pm.